You ordered the fish, but is it a phony?

With all the emphasis on the health benefits of fish in recent years, it’s disappointing to find that we’re in an era of phony fish.

The New York Times reports that researchers using gene sequencers to identify fish species have concluded that as much as 25 percent of all commercial fish products are incorrectly identified.

Put another way: it’s fraud.

Mahi-mahi can pass as yellowtail tuna, grouper can pass as catfish, and the Times calls tilapia “the Meryl Streep of seafood.” Apparently tilapia can be brilliantly passed off as all kinds of different fish.

The FDA has installed several gene sequencers in field labs to review fish samples. They’re expected to be up and running in a few months (like, in a year maybe?).

But the fish fraud problem won’t really be controlled until the technology catches up. Scientists predict the situation will change dramatically when hand-held sequencers are available to inspectors — probably within 10 years.

In the meantime, you can help ensure that the fish you’re eating is the actual variety of fish you ordered by purchasing fish from reputable sellers and reputable restaurants -– especially those who deal in whole fish.

A fish is harder to pass off as something it’s not when it’s still whole -– from head to tailfin. But when it arrives already cut into steaks or filets, or otherwise packaged and prepared -– especially if it’s breaded or obscured by sauce -– it just might be tilapia putting on a Meryl-quality performance.

Source:
“Tests Reveal Mislabeling of Fish” Elisabeth Rosenthal, New York Times, 5/26/11, nytimes.com